Trekking in Nepal


We arrived to Nepal from India entering in Sonauli. Few days stay in Pokahra, and already starting a trek around the Anapurna mountains. 27 days of walking experiencing and collecting adventures. We start in Besishar, visit many villages on the way to Manang, climb to the Ice lake (almost 4700m), Tilicho lake (5000m) and cross the Thoroung La mountains pass (5400m) to the holly village Muktinath. We take a hot bath in Tatopani (Tato=hot and Pani=water), and cross the magical forest on the way to Gandruk. From there we leave for a short rest in Pokhara and Kathmandu, and drive to Jiri to start the Everest region trek. 6 hard days bring us to Lukla, and from there things become easier. Crossing Namche Bazzar we go and climb to Gokyo and Gokyo Ri (5300m). Approaching Cho Oyo and visit Gokyo 4th lake. Crossing the Cho La mountains pass (5400m) to the Everest Base Camp (5300m) and climb Kala Pattar (5500m). From this point we go down, walking back to Jiri (actually to Shivalaya, one village closer, which has a daily bus to Jiri), and from there we drive back to Kathmandu. The hightest point visited is 5650m next to Kala Pattar, watching mount Everest. Total amount of 35,000m was climbed (more than 10,000 building floors). Pure mind escorted us all along. We will be back ;-)

Die Geschichte (Deutsch)

Mani stones

Along the high trails, huge piles of stones with Tibetian prayers written on, are scattered. They should be passed on their left side.

Mani stones

Whenever the water is not frozen, we can enjoy a great natural bathing. As altitude increases, fewer places for shower are available, and sometime few days pass between showers.

Shower in nature

Shower in nature

Marijuana fields

Huge fields of Marijuana along the lower parts of the Anapurna trail. The locals use them for fabric, but they are also sold to tourist whom report no real effect.

Marijuana fields

It is always possible to leave the main route and visit the more quiet places. Going up to Gyaru and Ngawal which lay just few hundred meters higher than the valley is great for the atmosphere change, and it help acclimatization to the altitude.

Lodge in Ngawal

Lodge in Ngawal

Green Lake

On the way down from the extension to Ngawal back to the valley, there is an easy path which cause the mind to disconnect from the body and just watch the landscape and continue. The green lake is part of this landscape.

Green Lake

In Nepal the goats are mainly for their meat, and no goat milk is produced. They also have funny spiral horns.

Nepali Goats on the way

Nepali Goats on the way

To Kangshar

In order to visit Tilicho lake, one have to get closer to the Anapurna mountain chain. First village on the way there is Kangshar. This bridge leads there.

To Kangshar

We spend the night in the Kitchen with the Tibetian woman who runs the lodge. There is a little snow outside. Kathi learns some secrets of the Tibetian cooking.

Kitchen in Kangshar

Kitchen in Kangshar

Freezing way to Tilicho lake

In the morning white land and plants greet us. The sunny areas melt first.

Freezing way to Tilicho lake

The sun shines on the white covered bushes. This beauty stays until noon, when also the shady spots melt.

Morning on the way to Tilicho lake

Morning on the way to Tilicho lake

Freezing river to be crossed

A mistake with navigation lead us to this river. Throwing the bags above it bring us to a dead end. We walk back .. and throw the bags again to cross the river.

Freezing river to be crossed

After few hours of climb we get to a new altitude. 5400m. The mountains around shine in the blue sky. Still there is a very long way down.

On Thoroung La mountain pass

On Thoroung La mountain pass

Upper Mustang from Kagbeni

This is a restricted area. A special expensive permission and a special guide are needed to get there.

Upper Mustang from Kagbeni

Not far from our lunch (cooking) break we meet this Yak. In this region they are less common, as it is the donkey kingdom here.

Yak on the trail

Yak on the trail

Donkies cross bridge

Tens of donkies each time carring heavy loads and occupying the whole path. Soon we learn to be always on the mountain side, which is safer. Here they cross the same bridge we do.

Donkies cross bridge

Hot springs after a long walk is a very good idea. In Tato (=hot) pani (=water) we split the time between the fruits garden and the hot water pools.

Hot springs in Tatopani

Hot springs in Tatopani

View from Poon Hill

Waking up before 5:00am to see this after we have touched the mountains is not that impressing, but still ...

View from Poon Hill

All the hills are full of Rhododendron trees which are flowering at this time of the year. It is just great to walk and see red white and pink colors all around.

Rhododendron flowers on Poon Hill

Rhododendron flowers on Poon Hill

Kathi on the balcony in Pokhara

Recovering after the Anapurna trek we enjoy the nice facilities of Pokhara. Nice Momo, great bakeries ...

Kathi on the balcony in Pokhara

We take a boat to enjoy the lake. There is a temple within the lake, which we surround.

Shahar pedals in Pokhara

Shahar pedals in Pokhara

The bus to Jiri

We take a local bus from Kathmandu to Jiri. It is just before a 2 days strike. With us in the bus sit/stand/fly 200 people. The bus breaks due to the weight. We all sit and wait for it to be repaired.

The bus to Jiri

The porters carry actually everything from parts of bridges and roofs to beers in bottles. They get paid 8 Rs per kg per day (10 cents). They carry even 100kg. We met children that carry 70kg.

Porters carry on the trail

Porters carry on the trail

Typical bridge

A bridge somewhere between Lukla and Namche Bazzar. There are many of these on this way. Sometimes they break and fall into the river. We have seen 2 being fixed during our stay. We also saw one before and after it got destroyed.

Typical bridge

In order to keep enough protein in our diet we buy eggs and boil them for later use. The package is wrapped with a white scarf which is usually given as a present to a monastery.

Eggs for proteins

Eggs for proteins

Cooking lunch on the way

On some occasions it is better to cook in the wild. With a benzin cooker life can be sometimes hard. Also high altitude cause a lower boiling temperature which is not enough for rice to be cooked.

Cooking lunch on the way

Rara instant noodles. The cheapest food, although not the most tasty or healthy one. Empty calories. Only put in hot water, wait few seconds and eat.

Eating Rara instant noodles

Eating Rara instant noodles

A short break

Even Kathi needs a break every some time. We try to choose nice places for the breaks.

A short break

Dole is a village on the way to Gokyo. Meadow and cows decorate it. Around this area one walks only short distances every day, to keep reasonable altitude increase.

Dole - village on the way

Dole - village on the way

Taking a shower in the mountains

Shower is with a bucket in a tent. 20 litters of warm water are enough for 2 people or at least 1 person and laundry.

Taking a shower in the mountains

In early morning, just before climbing to Gokyo Ri, we meet the Yaks covered with snow. Their thick hair protects them also in this altitude and this cold.

The yaks don`t freeze

The yaks don`t freeze

Gokyo lakes

The three first lakes of Gokyo can be seen here. There are 2 more norther lakes, when approaching Cho Oyo.

Gokyo lakes

Gokyo peak. From here it is possible to see Mt. Everest, Cho Oyo, Tamserku (in the picture) and others.

Top of Gokyo Ri

Top of Gokyo Ri

Climbing Cho La mountain pass

This is the most difficult climb in our trek. Few hundreds of meters of wall like climbing. At least great weather.

Climbing Cho La mountain pass

After 5 hours climbing, we reach the pass. Amazing beautiful. Nature made ice sculptures all around.

On Cho La mountain pass

On Cho La mountain pass

Heating with Yak dung

Above the tree line there isn't any wood for heating, so the Yak droppings are used. They are collected and dried before ...

Heating with Yak dung

A small peak, but very close to the Everest. The world's crown can be seen from it. The Everest base camp and Gorak Shep seem very close from the top.

Kala Pattar

Kala Pattar

Everest in the background

Here we show our smile achieving the top (5650m, next to Kala Pattar peak), and the Everest is there to decorate our picture.

Everest in the background

A tents city next to the Everest. Everything is built on a Glashier, and melts. We send an email from the highest internet cafe in the world, and start the way down.

Everest Base Camp

Everest Base Camp

The flora

Irises decorate our way when we descend 4000m. Also Orchidea which grow on trees.

The flora

Back to the city. A small colorful temple within the square.

Durbar square in Kathmandu

Durbar square in Kathmandu

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